The Authoritative Guide to Hanfu

“Hanfu is the traditional Chinese clothing” – is something we hear a lot and it is how we understand Hanfu… but, do we actually know what it means, do you know the role and story of Hanfu in Chinese history? To give you some more insights into “Hanfu”, we compiled this article just for you! Let us start from: When did Hanfu first came about and what role did it play in ancient China?

Origins and History of Hanfu

Hanfu is a symbol of cultural heritage and aesthetic elegance that traces back over three millennia! Hanfu was first documented in the Shang dynasty (1600–1046 BC), but it was during the Han dynasty that it became formalized. The design and style of Hanfu took cues from the needs of its time, focusing on showing respect through clothing. It is characterized by its cross-collar, wrapping right side over the left, and was typically secured with a sash. Hanfu garments were worn in layers, which could be quite elaborate depending on the wearer’s social status. Hanfu was not merely a daily wear but was deeply integrated into the ceremonial and cultural fabric of ancient China. For example, it was worn at court ceremonies, religious rituals, or scholarly activities. The design and fabric of Hanfu varied significantly across different dynasties, reflecting the social, economic, and political changes of the times. Notably, Hanfu was not strictly gender-bound, as both men and women adorned variations of these garments, which were often distinguished by subtle differences in cut, colour, and decoration.

Today, Hanfu has experienced a resurgence as a symbol of Chinese cultural pride and identity. Modern wearers often wear Hanfu during traditional festivals such as the Lunar New Year, Mid-Autumn Festival, and Chongyang Festival. Also, it has become popular at cultural events, in historical dramas, and among the younger generations who gather at cultural landmarks to celebrate their heritage. Universities and cultural groups sometimes host Hanfu events, promoting its history and aesthetic values.

The Structure of Hanfu

Tops:

Shān 衫 (shirt), Rú 襦 (jacket), Páo 袍 (robe), Ǎo 袄 (overcoat), Zhào Yī 罩衣 (cloak)

Bottoms:

Qún 裙 (skirt), Shang 裳 (long dress), Kù 袴 (wide-legged pants), Kūn 裈 (narrow-legged pants)

Layers of clothing:

Nèi Yī 内衣 (Underwear ), Mǒ Xiōng 抹胸 (chest wraps), Zhōng Yī中衣 (Middle garment), Wài Yī 外衣 (Outer garment /the visible layer)

Typical Zhōng Yī中衣 (Middle garment) looks like this:

The Occasions for Wearing Hanfu

Biàn Zhuāng 便装 Casual wear

Generally used for home, leisure, and other informal occasions.

Zhèng Zhuāng 正装 Formal wear

Generally used for gatherings, banquets, and other relatively formal occasions.

Shèng Zhuāng 盛装 Semi-formal wear

Generally used for major festivals, celebrations, and other grand occasions.

Lǐ Fú 礼服 Ceremonial wear

Generally used for specific ceremonial occasions, such as weddings and sacrificial rites.

A few typical categories of Hanfu

Hanfu encompasses a variety of styles, categorized mainly by the dynasty they originate from. nasty). Hanfu includes several variations depending on the dynasty, occasion, and status of the wearer. Here are some of the most typical styles:

Shēn Yī 深衣

Integrated into one piece, it combines a tunic and a skirt or trousers. Shenyi was popular during the Zhou dynasty and was considered formal wear.

Rú Qún襦裙

A combination of a blouse (ru) and a wrap-around skirt (qun). It has been a common style for women throughout history, known for its simplicity and elegance.

Qǔ Jū 曲裾

A long robe with diagonal wrapping and tied with a sash, suitable for both men and women. It was particularly popular during the Zhou period.

Zhí Jū 直裾

A straight-cut robe that is easy to make and wear, making it common among the common folks.

Bèi zi 褙子

The style is mainly characterized by straight-collar robes fastened with a cross-collar closure, with a belt tied at the waist. In the 1987 TV series “Dream of the Red Chamber,” clothing similar to the Bèi zi 褙子 can often be seen.

Watch 1987 Version “Dream of the Red Chamber”
Watch 2010 Version “Dream of the Red Chamber” with english subtitile.

Tǎn Lǐng 坦领

The Tǎn Lǐng 坦领, also known as the U-neck, is a type of short outer garment with half-length sleeves that evolved from the Rú (jacket) of the Wei and Jin dynasties. Due to the widespread popularity of Hu (nomadic) culture among all social classes during the Tang Dynasty, it became fashionable for Tang women to wear small-sleeved garments.

齐胸襦裙 Qí Xiōng Rú Qún

The Qí Xiōng Rú Qún was a type of women’s jacket-and-skirt outfit that was particularly popular during the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties periods.

袄裙 Ǎo Qún

The 袄裙 Ǎo Qún was an outfit consisting of an outer jacket over an inner skirt. In early Han clothing, the upper garment was commonly called “ru,” but after the Wei and Jin periods, “ao” and “shan” became more common terms. After the Tang Dynasty, “ru” was gradually replaced by “ao” and “shan.” Over this long evolution, their specific meanings and details differed, but it is generally accepted that “ao” refers to an upper garment with lining or interlining, while “shan” refers to a single-layer garment.

Now, each style serves different formalities and social functions, from casual wear to elaborate ceremonial attire. The choice of Hanfu can depend on the event, personal preference, or specific cultural or historical significance one wishes to align with. The textiles used in Hanfu include silk, brocade, and linen, and are often luxurious and elaborately decorated with traditional patterns. You definitely have seen those patterns before! They may include lotus flowers, dragons, and phoenixes – all carry specific cultural symbolism.

Hanfu is a direct embodiment of Chinese culture

Generally speaking, when people wear certain clothing, it conveys meanings about their personality (taste) and identity (occupation) through subtle implications.

Chinese people attach great importance to “meaning”. “Expressing meaning through symbols is a cultural tradition of the Chinese people. The patterns on objects are basically symbols that reflect the meanings of pursuing auspiciousness and avoiding ill omens, and this is even more true for the patterns on clothing.”

The patterns most frequently used on women’s Hanfu are peonies, butterflies, phoenixes, and so on, while the patterns most commonly seen on men’s Hanfu are longevity patterns, cloud patterns, geometric patterns, etc.

Moreover, Hanfu patterns often combine various auspicious symbols together, such as peaches, butterflies, bats, and ruyi patterns appearing in one composition. For example, patterns symbolizing marital bliss include the “Union of Two Immortals”, phoenix among peonies, butterflies lingering on flowers, and twin lotuses on one stalk.

Hanfu is closely related to etiquette. Clothing etiquette showcases the norms of dress, relating to social order, moral cultivation, and material life. The Rites of Zhou (《周礼》Zhōu Lǐ) records five types of rites: rites of celebration, rites of mourning, military rites, hospitality rites, and rites of capping (吉礼 Jí Lǐ，凶礼 Xiōng Lǐ，军礼 Jūn Lǐ ，宾礼 Bīn Lǐ，嘉礼 Jiā Lǐ).

The Book of Rites summarizes six types of ceremonial etiquette in social life: capping (冠 Guàn), wedding(婚 Hūn), funerary(丧 Sàng), sacrificial(祭 Jì), villageceremonies(乡 Xiāng), and meeting etiquette(相见 Xiāng Jiàn). For each type of ceremonial occasion, there are specific requirements for attire. To this day, the tradition of dressing according to etiquette for formal occasions persists.

“When Chinese parents educate their children, they require ‘proper deportment and appearance’ (正衣冠 Zhèng Yī Guān）. To achieve this, one needs to ‘dress and cap properly’, meaning that clothes and hats should be worn neatly, with a clean and tidy outer appearance that reflects an equally pure and upright inner spirit.” Hanfu is a direct embodiment of Chinese culture, reflecting the cultural orientation or belonging of the wearer, as clothing and one’s spiritual demeanor are closely intertwined.

Hanfu in Weddings

In contemporary Chinese weddings, Hanfu has become a popular alternative to Western wedding dresses and suits, especially among couples seeking to celebrate their nuptials with a touch of historical elegance. Wearing Hanfu can add a deeply personal and culturally rich element to the ceremony, connecting the couple’s union with centuries-old traditions. Some opt for Hanfu styles that correspond to particular dynasties, choosing attire that reflects the virtues, aesthetics, and cultural values of those eras.

Something interesting

Another small aspect interesting to be mentioned: in Chinese culture it was (and sometimes still is) a sign of respect to cover ones mouth when drinking! Have you noted? Or have you seen this in Chinese movies before? In ancient China, when moving the cup to the mouth and drinking, it was custom to put the other arm in front covering the lower part of the face. This was possible and looked especially eloquent as the sleeves of Hanfu clothing are usually long and loose.

Final

Hanfu has in recent years come into fashion again more than it used to be, but as you will note when in China, most Chinese people will stick to modern clothing. However, while it remains a quite remarkable and important part of Chinese cultural identity, offering a beautiful glimpse into the past, it also continues to evolve with contemporary fashion trends!